Front Room

A clean, bright, clever cuisine that’s never been seen before in Thailand. To get a feel of what promises to be a brand new cuisine for Thailand, I opted for the 10-course, with plates a relentless litany of everything that one would nowadays call “fusion” food. Every dish was a new and novel shape and size, each containing minute comestibles that competed for prettiness, some even bordering on brilliant. Velkommen is a Norwegian word for “welcome” and opens the menu with several small bites, all typically reflective of the Nordic Lab. Service was immaculate. Thestaff marvellously disciplined, never pushy or intrusive, and dishes came and went with such timing that I never felt hurried, or had to wait a moment longer than was precisely right to settle one course and prepare for the next.