At-Ta-Rote

Serious money has been sunk into At-Ta-Rote, a revamped ex-Italian ristorante that’s morphed into a modern Thai dining room, opened in late-2016. The restaurant, at the very far end of Sukhumvit Soi 39, occupies a vast, glass space with plenty of natural light. Wooden beams and shiny fittings present a chic décor, with an indoor overspill of flora that drips with greenery, kind of like entering into a greenhouse for a dining reservation. There’s also Pla Hang Tangmo, those little watermelon cubes with dried fish and crispy shallots, and Gaeng Pet Ped Yarng, a roasted duck curry in a creamy red paste and coconut milk base. It’s a delicious and meaty curry—not hot, but dense with flavour. Then, Nuea Pu Pad Prik Khee Noo, a stir-fry of white crab meat mixed with fiery red chillies that brings a tear to the eye, marginally aided by a Passion Fruit smoothie.