GUCCI OSTERIA Tokyo

There is much to please the eye at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura – we’d expect nothing less. In the light-filled main dining area, tall banquettes upholstered in peacock-colored velvet complement the hand-painted flooring and floral-patterned teacups. The private room is sumptuously appointed with antique mirrors and a splendid wooden table from the 18th century. The food is every bit as stunning as the décor. Led by the talented Antonio Iacoviello, the kitchen turns out superb original creations that take inspiration from the flavors and food traditions of Italy and Japan. The food has evolved rapidly in the year since the restaurant opened: There’s ayu dreaming of Venice in a sweet-and-savory whirlpool of onion, grape, and herb sauces; the crispiest of crunchiest takenoko with anchovy cream; and a lemon risotto that explores the fruit in five dimensions. But Iacoviello keeps it real with a dish of paccheri so pure and intense you’d swear the tomatoes were singing.